Thursday, April 07, 2005
A Walk through Yorkshire Dales
The Dalesway - Ilkley to Bowness-on-Windermere (James Herriot Country)
They have right of way
I took UAL flight from San Francisco to Heathrow, transferred to a Manchester flight, caught a train (right at the airport) for Ilkley--the town where I began my walk on Dalesway.
At Ilkley, I spent the night at Riverside Hotel on the bank of River Wharfe, a few hundred yards from the Old Bridge--the starting point.
The weather was kind. It rained the week before my walk and the week after I completed it. But during the six days when I walked on the trail there were just a few sprinkles.
For a major part of the distance, The Dalesway follows rivers--River Wharfe and then Lune, Kent, and Dee.
Day 1: Ilkley to Burnsall (Coniston)
Old Bridge at Ilkley
The signpost at the Old Bridge reads "Bowness 73 miles" (at Bowness the sign reads "Ilkley 81 miles"!). With detours I estimated that I walked about 90 miles.
Left Ilkley soon after a hearty breakfast. The breakfasts at B&B's were always good; I cannot say the same about dinners. For lunch I carried sandwiches prepared by the B&B or stopped at one of the local pubs.
A few miles down the trail, near Bolton Pritory, I met two guys (Ken and Ivan) from Sheffield who were doing the walk to raise funds for a local charity. We walked most of the Dalesway together the next five days although, except at Bowston, we did not stay at the same B&B.
Ruins of Bolton Priory
Ken and Ivan near Bolton Priory
Field of wild garlic
Day 2: Burnsall to Low Raisegill (15.5 miles, more like 18)
Near Kettlewell
Lunch break at Kettlewell
With Ken near Buckden
Day 3: Low Raisesgill to Dentdale via Pennine Watershed (13 miles)
Low Raisegill Farm B&B
Dent Head Viaduct
Day 4: Dentdale to Sedbergh (11 miles)
Patches of heather on the hills
Narrow footbridge over River Dee
Day 5: Sedbergh to Bowston (16 miles)
Holme Croft B&B, Sedbergh
Near Crook of Lune Bridge
Long day. Scenic, mostly flat.
Day 6: Bowston to Bowness-on-Windermere
Joan Jamieson,Ivan,Ken,Russell Jamieson
After a delicious breakfast we left Bowston with heavy hearts. Felt as though we were leaving friends we had known for a long time.
Joan Jamieson bidding us goodbye
Russell and Joan now live on the island of Crete (Greece). They bought a farm house and fixed it up. Happy--gardening, learning Greek and folk-dancing.
Last leg, nearing Bowness-on-Windermere
End of Dalesway
Fairfield Hotel, Bowness-on-Windermere
*******
Footnotes:
The trip was booked through a British company that specializes in walking tours. It provided maps, guide book, route instructions, and made arrangements at B&Bs for overnight stay during the walk.
I found The Dalesway Companion by Paul Hannon to be much better, easier to follow, than the guide book (The Dalesway by Anthony Burton) provided by the travel company.
*******
Why?
".....the universal desire to see a little bit further,
before the surrender to old age and the blank certitude
of death."
---Graham Greene (1904-1991)
They have right of way
I took UAL flight from San Francisco to Heathrow, transferred to a Manchester flight, caught a train (right at the airport) for Ilkley--the town where I began my walk on Dalesway.
At Ilkley, I spent the night at Riverside Hotel on the bank of River Wharfe, a few hundred yards from the Old Bridge--the starting point.
The weather was kind. It rained the week before my walk and the week after I completed it. But during the six days when I walked on the trail there were just a few sprinkles.
For a major part of the distance, The Dalesway follows rivers--River Wharfe and then Lune, Kent, and Dee.
Day 1: Ilkley to Burnsall (Coniston)
Old Bridge at Ilkley
The signpost at the Old Bridge reads "Bowness 73 miles" (at Bowness the sign reads "Ilkley 81 miles"!). With detours I estimated that I walked about 90 miles.
Left Ilkley soon after a hearty breakfast. The breakfasts at B&B's were always good; I cannot say the same about dinners. For lunch I carried sandwiches prepared by the B&B or stopped at one of the local pubs.
A few miles down the trail, near Bolton Pritory, I met two guys (Ken and Ivan) from Sheffield who were doing the walk to raise funds for a local charity. We walked most of the Dalesway together the next five days although, except at Bowston, we did not stay at the same B&B.
Ruins of Bolton Priory
The history of Bolton Priory, goes back to the 12th century. The Black Canons of the Order of St. Augustine sheltered here at Bolton, where they pursued a life of service and worship. Today, the Priory Church still serves the local community as a place of worship.
Field of wild garlic
After reaching Burnsall we stopped for a few pints and then parted company. Ivan and Ken went on to Grassington, about four miles further, while I checked in at the B&B where I was booked.
Near Kettlewell
The plan was to rendevouz with Ken and Ivan at Grassington next morning at 10:00. However, I overslept and missed the deadline. By keeping a fast pace I was able to catch up with them near Kettlewell. Ken had ankle problem and that slowed them down.
Lunch break at Kettlewell
With Ken near Buckden
Stopped for lunch and a few pints at Kettlewell and then on to the trail. On the way to Buckden we met Tom and Sheila Morris from Nottingham and walked together. A year later Tom and Sheila visited San Francisco. JHL and I took them for a walk through the Marina to Fort Point.
Ken and Ivan were booked at an inn in Buckden while my lodging was at Low Raisegill, five miles further. We planned to meet on the trail next morning but I didn't see them until I got to Dentdale.
The travel company's instructions were incorrect about the location of the B&B. So, instead of a left turn I turned right, crossed the bridge at Hubberholme and walked for almost a mile and a half before I found someone to ask about my destination. Turned around and went all the way back past Hubberholme to Low Raisegill Farm. I was pretty beat up by the time I got there and had no energy to walk back to the well-known George Inn for drinks after I had my shower.
Low Raisegill Farm B&B
Dent Head Viaduct
The most demanding day of the walk as I traversed the High Moor, past Langstrothdale, Yockenthwaite and Oughtershaw Hall. I would not like to do it on an overcast, rainy day. Very bleak landscape. The Cam House was a welcome sight because I knew that the hard part was coming to an end. Didn't see Ken and Ivan although there were other walkers following the route. A tough day. There was not that much of an altitude gain but there were numerous patches of boggy peat which required considerable extra walking. Could not be completely avoided. All the walkers had mud up to their knees when we reached Dentdale.
On top of the moor the Pennine Way crosses Dalesway at Cam High Road built by the Romans in 1st Century AD. The view of massive Dent Head Viaduct appeared soon. The popular scenic train ride between Settle and Carlisle passes over the Dent Head Viaduct.
Met Ivan and Ken in the evening at the Sportsman's Inn. Ken was limping; his ankle problem had gotten worse. The Sportsman's Inn served good food and beer. We were there until closing time and then staggered to bed.
Day 4: Dentdale to Sedbergh (11 miles)
Patches of heather on the hills
Narrow footbridge over River Dee
A pleasant day. We stopped for lunch alongside River Lune and continued on to Sedbergh. Sedbergh School is attended by children of well-to-do families. Not quite Eaton or Harrow, it has a reputation of being one of the top public schools. Saw students playing cricket which reminded me of the time when I was an active participant in the game.
Again, at Sedbergh we got together in the evening for drinks. I had dinner with the owners of the B&B.
Day 5: Sedbergh to Bowston (16 miles)
Holme Croft B&B, Sedbergh
Near Crook of Lune Bridge
Long day. Scenic, mostly flat.
All of us were booked at Kent Dene B&B, managed by Joan and Russell Jamieson. It was the best among the B&B's. Great pasta; unlimited red wine; and wonderful hosts. After dinner, Russell Jamieson drove us to town to try the local brews.
Joan Jamieson,Ivan,Ken,Russell Jamieson
After a delicious breakfast we left Bowston with heavy hearts. Felt as though we were leaving friends we had known for a long time.
Joan Jamieson bidding us goodbye
Russell and Joan now live on the island of Crete (Greece). They bought a farm house and fixed it up. Happy--gardening, learning Greek and folk-dancing.
Last leg, nearing Bowness-on-Windermere
Ken's ankle problem had gotten worse. I carried his pack to Bowness. Arrived at Bowness before noon. My hotel was just a couple of hundred yards from the end of the trail. I invited Ken and Ivan for a pint before they left for city center to meet Ivan's son who was going to drive them back to Sheffield.
End of Dalesway
Fairfield Hotel, Bowness-on-Windermere
After spending the night at Bowness-on-Windermere I took a train to Newcastle to meet relatives who lived in Sunderland. After a few days it was time to head for home. Train from Newcastle to Manchester; flight from Manchester to Heathrow; and then Heathrow to San Francisco. It was a good trip. As it always does, the view of San Francisco Bay warmed the cockles of my heart as the plane prepared to make the final approach for landing.
The trip was booked through a British company that specializes in walking tours. It provided maps, guide book, route instructions, and made arrangements at B&Bs for overnight stay during the walk.
I found The Dalesway Companion by Paul Hannon to be much better, easier to follow, than the guide book (The Dalesway by Anthony Burton) provided by the travel company.
".....the universal desire to see a little bit further,
before the surrender to old age and the blank certitude
of death."
---Graham Greene (1904-1991)
